For some, cod is simply a tasty fish we enjoy from time to time, but in Portugal, it’s a way of life. Portugal consumes more cod than any European nation per capita, even though most of it comes from Norway and Iceland.
In Portugal, bacalhau means cod, often referring to the dried, salted variety rather than fresh fish. After first trying bacalhau in Lisbon, I quickly understood the fuss. Some years later, I began my Lisbon food tours, and my affinity for Portuguese cod has continued to grow ever since.
I’ve lost count of the places I’ve sampled bacalhau in Lisbon, but these are the spots that have left a lasting impression on me.
Photo credit: A Casa do Bacalhau
If you’re not staying close to the Beato neighborhood in eastern Lisbon, it’s worth venturing out here just to visit A Casa do Bacalhau.
Even before I got a hold of the menu, I was enamored with this place. I loved how the towering brick-clad arches contrasted with the glossy black furniture and walls full of contemporary wine racks.
The chefs at A Casa do Bacalhau specialize in this beloved fish, using it as the focus of more than two dozen distinct cod dishes. However, next time I return here, I’ll be going straight for the pataniscas de bacalhau again.
Each bite-sized piece had a soft blend of slightly salty cod, crisp onions, and grassy parsley held together inside a crunchy golden batter. As far as cod fritters go, everything from the texture to the flavors hit the mark.
A Casa do Bacalhau (€€) – Rua do Grilo 54, 1900-706 Lisboa, Portugal – Open every day from 12:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Photo credit: Laurentina
Laurentina in the Avenidas Novas district has been serving up bacalhau since the 1970s, which was all I needed to hear to convince me to visit!
Inside, Laurentina almost feels like two different restaurants. One section is simple, refined, and ambient, while towards the back, there are stunning stone statement walls and colorful floral arrangements.
While the guys here showcase some fantastic examples of various Portuguese foods, their bacalhau menu is by far the most extensive. I was keen to try the bacalhau com natas, as they had a quirky take on this classic dish.
The bacalhau com natas here is quintessential comfort food. Amongst the layers of chewy cod, creamy potato, and mild onions was a sprinkling of spinach, adding a touch of earthiness to each bite.
Laurentina (€€) – Av. Conde Valbom 71A, 1050-067 Lisboa, Portugal – Open every Monday to Saturday from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm, closed every Sunday
Photo credit: O Beco
Lisbon’s charming Alfama neighborhood is overflowing with exquisite eateries, but O Beco is among the best when bacalhau is concerned.
After reading the menu outside, I assumed this place would be rather traditional, yet the decor was chic and modern. With the muted lighting and plush brown seating, the entire dining area felt cozy and romantic.
I was a little short on time when I arrived, so I just stopped in for a quick bite. Whenever I’m craving something on the smaller side, I always find some pastéis de bacalhau hit the spot.
These salted cod cakes get better with every mouthful, and I was supremely impressed with each pastel de bacalhau at O Beco. They’re pretty similar to pataniscas, but these pastéis were heartier due to the rich potato base and thick batter, which mellowed the savory cod.
O Beco (€€) – Beco do Espírito Santo 9, 1100-222 Lisboa, Portugal – Closed every Monday, open Tuesday from 1:30 pm to 5:00 pm and 7:00 pm to 12:00 am, Wednesday to Friday from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm and 7:00 pm to 12:00 am, and every Saturday and Sunday from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm and 6:00 pm to 12:00 am
As Salgadeiras stands in what once was one of Bairro Alto‘s most beloved bakeries. Despite its former life as a hub for baked goods, it’s now a hotspot for bacalhau in Lisbon.
The interior has all the features of a traditional Portuguese eatery, with high ceilings, a homely vibe, and a fabulous selection of local wines.
I was attended to by a super helpful waiter who detailed the various Atlantic cod creations on the menu. Having become such an avid fan of bacalhau à brás, which I’ve even included on my Lisbon food and wine tour, I couldn’t help but go for this hearty dish.
My favorite thing about bacalhau à brás is how shredding the sweet cod, tender potatoes, and zingy onions ensures every bite is a mish-mash of textures and flavors. While the scrambled eggs were incorporated to bind each component, they also added a hint of butteriness.
As Salgadeiras (€€€) – R. das Salgadeiras 18, 1200-396 Lisboa, Portugal – Closed every Monday, open every Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 12:00 am
Photo credit: D’Bacalhau
D’Bacalhau sits alongside the Jardim Garcia de Orta in Parque das Nações. While it’s a little out of the center, it hasn’t stopped it from becoming hugely popular among locals and tourists.
When I got here, it was quiet enough that I could take my pick between the indoor and outdoor dining areas. As much as I admired looking at the expansive windows and photo-covered walls, I was eager to make the most of the opportunity to dine al fresco.
I assumed from the name that the line-up of bacalhau dishes would be substantial here, but I had no idea there’d be upwards of 20! Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá was one of the bacalhau specialties I wasn’t too familiar with, so this was an easy choice for me.
It was a decision that certainly paid off as I savored every forkful of delicate bacalhau, thinly sliced potato, and bitter olives. Initially, I thought the olives were peculiar additions, but they deepened the other, much softer flavors.
D’Bacalhau (€€) – Zona Ribeirinha Norte, R. da Pimenta 45, 1900-254 Lisboa, Portugal – Open every day from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
I’m as fond of Cais do Sodre‘s Time Out Market as anyone, but you’ll find even tastier cod just a few streets back at Bacalhau.
This ever-so-casual spot has a lovely, bright interior and the warmest of staff members. If you get here at the right time, you might be as lucky as I was to snag one of the few outdoor tables just steps from the tramline.
Even though I came for the bacalhau, I’d be lying if I said the sardines and grilled octopus didn’t tempt me. Nonetheless, I wanted to try the cod here for quite some time, so I opted for the bacalhau à lagareiro, which I’d heard great things about from friends of mine.
Simple, nourishing, and downright delicious, this dish consisted of oven-baked cod dusted with fruity olive oil and nutty garlic. The cod was tender yet firm, and its subtle flavors were complemented by a side of fluffy potatoes, slightly sweet carrots, and refreshing parsley.
Bacalhau (€€) – Rua de S. Paulo 170, 1200-274 Lisboa, Portugal – Open every day from 12:00 pm to 12:00 am
With so many spots serving bacalhau in Lisbon, you’ll rarely have to walk more than a few minutes to get your hands on some delicious codfish. That said, some restaurants have a certain knack for creating incredibly appetizing takes on bacalhau, and each eatery on this list does just that!
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