Music is the star of the show at Spiritland. The venue is equipped with a unique, world-class sound system (details are here-I won’t pretend I know what they mean or why they’re exciting), with music covering a wide panoply of genres and eras playing day and night-and that’s every day and night, with DJ sets every evening and all weekend, as well as music-themed talks, interviews and Q&As; there’s also a recording studio on the premises, and Spiritland has its own radio channel. The music never stops-even when you go to the loo, which is an experience worth having there whether you need it or not.

So what is it, exactly? Café, restaurant, bar; whatever you like, really. Spiritland not only ticks all these wonderful boxes, but ticks them well. You may think that the food would be a grudging afterthought in a place with such a patent focus on the audible, but in fact the seasonal fare here gives a memorable performance of its own. Strange though it may sound, I’d recommend coming in the morning; perhaps not the place for an intimate chat, or even a hangover, but nor will you feel as though you’re eating in a nightclub, and the coffee blends with the beats to deliver the perfect wake-up. As you tuck into your brunch you’ll be resisting the urge to get up and dance (or perhaps not resisting it at all).

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